Installing window trim reveal

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It is seen at the edge of a door or window, where the face molding is set back. A combination square works well for marking reveals. I mark my reveals onto the window jambs and double-check that measurement. I measure all of my windows, make a stock list and then head to the shop or assembly table. If needed, I rip my trim to size and then miter cut all the trim to length.

Remember when cutting the trim to length, you are measuring and cutting from the short end of the two miters.

The short ends need to line up with the reveal marks To be efficient, I cut all of my stock at one time, and label it. Once everything is cut, labeled, and stacked, I bring it to my Kreg jig which I hook up to a vacuum to keep down the sawdust.

At the Kreg jig, I usually use a scrap piece to test fit the location of my pocket holes. Once I find the right location I then go ahead and clamp my mitered trim into the jig, consistently at the same location. This positioned the screws in the good location for fastening the miter. When pre-assembling the picture frame parts, I lay all 4 parts on the table and pick a miter to start at, and work my way around.

Using clamps to hold at least one, sometimes two, trim parts down, to my table I use Kreg self-tapping pan head screws, some glue, and fasten the miter joint. When fastening I try to ensure the mitered boards are flush with each other. Once the entire frame is assembled I wipe off the excess glue, fill any imperfections with wood putty and stack the assembly to dry.

For the window trim installation, I install reveal marks top and bottom of the window jamb and hold the trim to those marks. The windowsill to leg attachment will receive four longer, exterior grade screws and glue. Note — You should always use PVC cement adhesive to secure the joints and prevent separation or visible gaps between the boards.

Best practice to keep your joints tight, and boards secure is to use a combination of glue and mechanical fasteners. Apply PVC cement to both parts being fastened and allow glue to become tacky. The glue melts the PVC creating a permanent, new bond to each other. Align the vertical leg to the top casing and clamp so the joint is flush. Once your pieces aligned, install the pocket hole screws. Repeat the process on the other end.

The screws till hold the joint tight, without the need for clamps. Pro Tip: if you have a pocket screw blow out because you drove it too far, leave it in place until the PVC glue has dried. Once dry, back out or remove that screw and fix it on the sanding stage.

With the window trim assembly backside facing up, line up the back of the windowsill with the pre-cut nailing flange channels on the vertical legs.

Clamp down the leg casing and drill 2 pilot holes through the sill into the leg casing. Use exterior screws, long enough to penetrate the leg casing by an inch, preferably more. Hold a length of apron stock face down on the stool. Mark the stock where it meets each side casing's outside edge.

At the marks, make square cuts with a miter saw. To dress up the ends of an apron, hold the end of a scrap apron piece perpendicular to the face of the piece just cut. Face the scrap's profile toward the end of the apron and make the edges flush.

Trace the scrap's profile onto the face of the apron. Repeat on the other end. Cut along the pencil lines with a jigsaw or coping saw, and sand smooth. Apply glue along the top edge of the apron, align its ends with the outside edges of the side casing, and press the top edge against the bottom of the stool. Recess all nail heads with a nail set and hammer, then fill the holes with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry overnight.

Using grit sandpaper, lightly hand-sand the putty flush with the surrounding wood. Then lightly sand the casings, corner blocks, stool and apron. Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack rag, then apply a coat of stain and varnish, or primer and paint. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.

By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. How to Trim Out a Window. By Scott Gibson. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard.

Step 1 Trimming Out a Window When installing window casing in old houses, Tom often has to contend with walls that dip and bulge, causing gaps between the trim and wall. Step 2 Prep the Jambs Photo by David Carmack Hold a straightedge across the window; check that each jamb is flush with the wall.

Step 3 Cut and Rabbet the Stool Place a side casing against the wall, aligned with the reveal line on a side jamb. Remove the waste in two separate rip cuts on a table saw.